All of our seed mixes prefer full sun which means a minimum of 6 hours of sun exposure.

Preparing the ground for sowing seeds is the number one step to ensuring a successful wildflower garden.

If preparing a raised or already established garden bed or planter, ensure the soil is worked sufficiently that it is not hard and compacted. No amendments are necessary.

For areas with weeds or grass currently present, full preparation is a must to ensure the wildflowers have little/no competition. This can be established in 3 ways, but patience is a must:

1. Smother with layers of newspaper or cardboard covered in compost to kill off all vegetation from a given area. In 4-8 months all grasses and weeds will be dead and the soil may be worked to create loose earth.

2. Solarize the area by placing clear plastic tightly over the area for 3-4 weeks during the hottest months. Prior to covering mow the area extremely short (scalp) or till the soil. Water thoroughly down to 12 inches as this will cause the weed seeds to germinate then the heat from the tarp will kill them. This process can be done on existing garden beds if weeds have been a problem.

3. Careful use of herbicides for a 3 month period in the active growth phase for weeds will eventually kill off the area. Till the area and remove debris.

We DO NOT recommend just throwing seed onto the ground as you will be sorely disappointed!

Planting in the very late fall, winter or spring is acceptable. However, you must consider what the temperature cycles are for your area.

Late fall and winter planting:

In climates with cold or freezing winters (where the ground freezes for more than 60 days) wait to sow until several hard frosts/freezes occur to keep seeds from sprouting prematurely. The soil needs to be consistently below 45°F.

In warmer climates that experience fewer frosts, planting perennial wildflowers in early fall so the seeds can grow for about 60-90 days will allow them to establish a healthy root system prior to the first frost of the season.

In warm climates where the ground doesn’t freeze and harden, sow seeds in January or February to take advantage of the rainier season.

For spring planting:

For cold climates that experience snowfall and freezing temperatures, you must wait to sow until all threats of a frost have passed. A late spring frost will kill tender, young seedlings. Planting when the soil temperature is consistently 55°F will ensure the most favorable conditions for growth.

For warmer climates early spring is a good time to plant. The seeds will eventually germinate when the soil is above 55°F allowing plants to establish prior to excessive heat and annuals to bloom. Regular watering will be critical if temperatures warm up quickly in your area.

Planting wildflower seeds is very simple if the ground has been properly prepared.

1. Scatter the seeds according to the area each packet of seeds will cover (as noted on the back of each package in square feet).

2. Wildflower seeds can be very small in size. Mixing the seeds with sand (bagged playground sand only) can ensure a more even distribution. Mixing 8 parts sand to 1 part seed is the best ratio. If covering a small area you can sprinkle by hand.

3. Compress the soil as this is an important step. This can be accomplished with your feet walking over the surface, a roller or lay a piece of cardboard or plywood and walk all over it.

4. Covering the seeded area is not necessary, however, if birds are a true nuisance you can lightly cover the area with straw. But remember, the seedlings need access to full sun to thrive.

From the moment seeds are planted they require water to germinate and become established.

Depending on what season you have planted your seeds (see “when do I plant..”) you may have to begin watering immediately. Fall and winter planting are good ways to avoid watering if possible in your area.

Early fall planting and spring planting require the seeds to stay damp consistently as they are not considered dormant. Since the seeds are only in the top ¼ - ½” of ground the area will dry out quickly due to wind and sun. Water gently and daily if needed to keep the area damp.

Once the seedlings have grown to 4-6” high (about 4-6 weeks) you can reduce the frequency of watering to twice weekly and less frequent as they grow taller and stronger.

Although well-established native plants require little water because of their deep roots, it is important to make sure new plantings are well watered in their first season. Watering can be tedious, but it can also be a time to relax and reflect on the beauty of your planting area.

1. Apply water gradually to allow water to soak in and not run off.

2. Be sure to water regularly through the dry summer months; weekly is preferred as a well-hydrated plant will avoid disease.

3. New plantings and annuals, in particular, need to be monitored regularly during long dry periods. If the first 1-2” of soil is dry you should consider watering.

4. Once fall comes, you can relax a little, but not too much, as plants need adequate water to carry them through the winter.

5. If you get a good soaking rain adjust your watering schedule as wildflowers do not thrive is soggy areas.

Weeds will steal precious nutrients, sunshine and water away from your perennials if they are not diligently removed. Weeds should be monitored regularly so that the weeds don’t have a chance to go to seed and turn a small nuisance into a big problem.  

1. Eliminate any invasive plants encroaching on your area. Cutting them just below the surface is the best way to eliminate.

2. Try not to excessively disturb the soil (such as pulling up from the roots) as this encourages weed seeds to come to the surface.

3. If you are unsure something is a weed check on a plant app or the internet for guidance.

As your pollinator garden becomes well established, it will do much of the work for you by crowding out many nuisance weeds.

Do not use herbicides or pesticides in or near the area. Herbicides will kill your wildflowers and thus keep pollinators from inhabiting your area. Pesticides kill beneficial insects as well as those considered a nuisance. Beneficial insects will keep the pests in check. Certain classes of insecticides known as neonicotinoids have been linked to Colony Collapse Disorder.

As gardeners, we have been trained to see a thick layer of mulch as a sign of a tidy well-kept garden. The reality, however, is wood mulches are often toxic to our plants. Many native bee species are ground nesting, meaning they need access to bare earth to make their home and lay their eggs. Given that you are planting to help save the pollinators it’s best to leave the ground bare.

If you want to use mulch to reduce weeds, lay spent plant material on the ground or grass clippings (if no pesticides have been used). Leaf litter is wonderful as it provides nutrients to the ground, and in the winter, is the nesting habitat for many butterflies and moths.

If you must mulch, use grass clippings or other types of organic mulch to inhibit weed growth.

Many pollinators make their homes and overwinter in the spent blooms and dried stalks of your pollinator garden. Leave fall cleanup until spring, when temperatures have risen to a point where bees, butterflies, moths and other beneficial pollinators have had a chance to emerge. As a rule, when the plant begins producing new growth, it is safe to cut back or remove dead plant material. Dead plant material can be used as mulch around your planting area which will help to reduce weeds.

If you have the space, consider leaving a small pile of logs or dead branches as habitat for cavity nesting bees and other wildlife.

Butterfly and pollinator plants are the easiest ones to grow. The backbone of butterfly gardens are perennials and native plants that come back year after year. These flowers may look pretty, but they’re not delicate in the least and can often withstand drought conditions once established.

For unopened seed packets or kits, or undamaged/unused signs, a refund, minus the original shipping cost, is possible if the item is in perfect condition. Shipping of the item back to us will be at your cost and we reserve the right to determine the condition of the item upon arrival.

Unfortunately, we are not able to provide a refund for plants that do not grow or thrive. Because we cannot control how well someone follows instructions, prepares the ground, cares for seedlings, where the plant is placed, or track how long ago the item was sold to you, we can’t be responsible for a failed product.